Compounds in Making Perfume
Aromatic Compounds
The strength and longevity of the scent of a perfume or cologne depend on the percentage of essential aromatic oils it contains. True perfume can contain as much as 40% essential oil. "Eau de parfum" usually contains as much as 15%. "Eau du toilette" is next down the line with only about 10%. "Eau de cologne" only contains about 5% aromatic compound ,and "splash" and aftershave have the least amount, with 3%. The higher concentration of aromatic compound, the longer the scent will last.
Solvents
Solvents are used to break down and dilute the concentrated aromatic compounds. The most common solvent used in perfumery is ethanol--otherwise known as alcohol. Alcohol is ideal because it will evaporate quickly from the skin and leave the aromatic oils behind. Solvents are what help to suspend the oils so that they stay well-blended and do not separate. Other solvents that can be used to make perfume are coconut oil and jojoba oil, which do not possess any of their own scents.
Fragrance Notes
The scent of a perfume is described as having three layers or "notes." These layers are referred to as the "top notes," "middle notes" and "base notes." Top notes which are also called "head notes" are the first impression you get from a fragrance. These top notes evaporate quickly--this is when the perfume reveals its middle notes. Middle notes are also known as "heart notes" and soften the base notes, which can be harsh at first. Base notes settle over time and are the strongest and most identifiable part of the perfume.
Natural Sources
There are two classifications of aromatic oil sources, which are animal and botanical or "plant" sources. Flowers are the main botanical source such as orchids, tuberose, rose and jasmine. The only natural fruit scents that are used in perfumery are lemon, orange or lime. Any other fruit scents found in perfume or artificial because they don't keep the desired scent when extracted. There are also aromatic extractions from leaves, woods, seeds and moss. The animals extractions are ambergris--otherwise known as "amber"--from sperm whales; castoreum, which comes from the North America beaver; and honeycomb, which is derived from the hives of honeybees.
Tags: aromatic compound, aromatic oils, base notes, Compounds Making, Compounds Making Perfume, fruit scents, Making Perfume