From a long tradition of string instruments, the ukulele is classified as a plucked lute, invoking images of royal courts, jesters and massive feasts. Of course, the real truth is very different, with the ukulele emerging as a Portuguese import to the island of Hawaii, who named and perfected the instrument. The ukulele experienced a boom of popularity in the middle of the 20th century, establishing its presence as a fun and useful instrument in a variety of circumstances.
Instructions
1. Shape the neck of the ukulele. The neck and body is composed of one length of hard wood. Poplar, maple, mahogany and cherry are all equally effective. The initial dimensions should be about an inch thick, 1 1/2- to 2-inches wide, and 18- to 22-inches long.
2. Using a jigsaw, cut a quarter inch out of the thickness on the neck's top four inches. This will form the the well in the head of the instrument where the friction pegs will be attached.
3. Cut out a space for your fingers to strum the instrument. This is best accomplished by measuring 2 inches up from the bottom of your ukulele's body. From this point, use the jigsaw to cut a 1/4 inch away from the surface of the ukulele's face, making a depression along the body of the ukulele. Cut this depression for approximately 6 inches, producing a carved-out portion of your ukulele's body. This will form the strumming well where your fingers will strum or pluck at the strings.
4. Pre-drill holes, then install the friction pegs. The pegs should be installed in two vertical rows that are staggered in relation to each other, producing a zig-zag appearance. When strings are installed the two strings that are attached to friction pegs in the same row will run down opposite sides, producing four different string positions.
5. Glue strips of 1/4-inch thick scrap wood to the the top and bottom of the neck, creating the nut and saddle. The top piece, the nut, should be approximately a quarter inch down from the head. The bottom piece, or saddle, should be glued down 1/2 inch from the bottom of the ukulele body, or about 1 and 1/2 inches from the string well.
6. Cut 4 grooves into the nut and bottom of the body using a handsaw. Use a yardstick or another straight edge to make sure these 4 grooves are equidistant and in line with the strings as they would run from the friction pegs. The grooves on the very bottom of the body will be used as attachment points for the strings, while the grooves in the nut will keep the strings properly aligned along the full body of the instrument.
7. Glue down the fret positions. Fret positions can be calculated using any of the fret calculation websites listed below. Frets are composed of flat toothpicks.
8. Attach the ukulele strings. Knot the end of the strings and push the knot underneath the groove at the base of the body. Pull the strings up, catching the knots under the body, and tighten the strings on the friction pegs. Using the wingnuts on the underside of the head, tighten down the ukulele strings. You should now have a fully functional ukulele body, neck and head.
9. Build the soundbox. This can involve any number of simple box shapes. Cigar boxes are particularly popular. Another possibility is a plastic container combined with a thick foam poster-board. Simply super glue the foam board down along the rim of the plastic container, then cut away any excess board that extends beyond the glued edge.
10. Cut a circular hole in the surface of the poster board to allow sound amplification. The hole should be 1- to 2- inches in diameter and located in the top left corner of the soundbox.
11. Using super glue, glue the ukulele body to the sound box. Allow it to dry overnight.
Tags: friction pegs, ukulele body, bottom body, from bottom, inches from, plastic container