I dont have a lot of cash to spend on a miter saw so I have narrowed it down to these 2. I need it for building some stairs. 1. Ryobi I cant find and reviews on this one. Ryobi Power Tools :: 10 Sliding Compund Miter Saw with Laser 2. Kobalt/Craftsman. these seem to be the same saw just a different color. The Craftsman has mixed reviews. Some say it works great others say the angle measurments are off. It sounds like the plastic lift handle breaks and the dust collector is a joke. Kobalt at Lowe's: 10 15-Amp Sliding Laser Compound Miter Saw Craftsman 10 in. Sliding Miter Saw Thanks for any advice.
Keep in mind that the maximum width board you can cross-cut with a 10 in. mitre saw is about 5.5 in.
I recently upgraded from my old Craftsman 10 to a 12 Ridgid and I've been very happy. Max cut is about 9; not sure if it's available as a slider or not. I can tell you my old Craftsman had both issues you mentioned; dust collection was not great and the scale was off.
TG, did you get the one with the dislocated drive motor and belt drive? Awesome! I replaced a well used Bosch with the Ridgid 12, and love it, especially with tall moldings. Motor is out of the way. It is available as a slider, but $. Omega, it all boils down to what you will do with it. I cut with mine 6 hours a day 5 days a week, so mine has to be bullet proof. If you do weekend warrior work, then the Ryobi with laser works well. As Ken says, the 10 will reduce the size of stock you can cut, but being a slider, you can cut wider boards in one pass. I have used my SIL's when I visit there and do repairs (I make him buy tools since I can't take mine with me). It cuts well, low vibration and the laser is better than my Ridgid. I simply can't get mine zeroed in. And you can't see it in the sunshine anyway. Fill us in on your use of the saw.
Thanks for the replies. The two that I’m looking at are sliding miter saws and I believe the cross cut is 12. Tow Guy, I have looked at the ridgid but the sliding version is $550. The dust collection is not that big of a deal to me but the angle measurements would be pretty annoying.
I am more of a weekend warrior. I have been remodeling my house for the last couple of years and have been using my dad’s 12 miter saw. I am about to finish out some stairs and I have to cut some treads 11 1/4 and skirt boards. I thought about just using a circular saw with a homemade fence but I’m not sure if that would be as accurate. I can’t afford to have a bad cut because these stair parts aren't cheap. Plus, I would like to have my own miter saw (I’m tired of lugging my dad’s back and forth between my house and his :-). Does your SIL have the Ryobi?
Omega, yeah, he has the ryobi, and it works well. Be aware, however, when cutting stair treads, they are not always cut at 90 degrees. Sometimes the framing determines if there is a taper or not. Place a framing square against the stringers, spanning more than one of course, and copy that angle to your tread. I usually cut a sacrificial riser to use on each level to gain a flat square abutment along the stringers. BUT, if you have good framing, the slider is the way to go.
Chandler, yup. Main reason I bought it (besides the age of the old Craftsman) was it had a huge markdown on it. Guess HD was just clearing out stock because it was new in box. Yeah, I noticed that 12 ridgid slider is pretty pricey.
Thanks chandler. I have checked out a book from the library Building Stairs by Andy Engel and am learning a lot. I am just going step by step thru that book. So far I have removed the temp. treads (2x12's) risers and replace with subtreads subrisers 3/4 plywood that I have already shimmed to square. My next step is to install the skirt board that I will also shim to square. After that treads/risers, finishing the flooring on the landing, then newel posts, handrail and balusters. Hopefully my stair parts will get here this week. This would probably take a pro 1 or 2 days to finish but I hope to have them finished in 2 months :-)
Only in Alabama!! Go for it Bear!!
Tags: miter, available slider, dust collection, have been, some stairs, stair parts, weekend warrior, works well
Guy at my local hardware store said this stain and sealer was the best out on the market bar none. He showed me a test he did on a few pieces of wood with different products and SuperDeck by far looked and penetrated the wood better than Cabot and Ben Moore. He is unbiased as the store does not carry SuperDeck products. Anyway, was wondering if anyone here has used SuperDeck stain/sealer. If so, what do think of the outcome? Thanks everyone Sean Duckback Products - Superdeck Products
I can't say much as I don't think I've ever used super deck coatings but they do have a good reputation. I usually use the stains available at my local SWP stores - not sure who sells super deck in my area.
Cabbot and Sikkens usually get the most endorsement here with Ben Moore and SWP not far behind. I don't know Superdeck.
Superdeck has been used widely by contract pressure washers for a number of years. It does have a good reputation, if you can find it. fred
Thanks fewalt for the feedback
I have always used and I loved the way the rain beaded up on the top fo the deck. Someone told me to use superdeck. I did and it soaked in like oil. It did not bead the water. The rain seemed to soak into the wood. Well today I bought 5 gallons of Thompson Seal for $60. That is the cost of two gallons of Superduck. So I will be using thompson's not super from now on. I just dont see the benefit!
Clydeine...water beading up is not really the test of a product. I can rub a candle on a piece of wood and water will bead up. For a few days..until it wears and washes off. I used Thompsons as well for a few years..but it had to be re-applied every spring (and probably should have done it earlier). Somewhat depends on your weather of course. But to each their own..
I first started using thompson's waterseal in the 60's and thought it was a great product. I believe it is still just as good as it was then but..... a lot better coatings have since been developed. it does do a good job but unfortunately it's short lived
I've used a lot of Super Deck, and it is good. Would I say it's the best, bar none?? Well, no. It's good, and it will outlast that T crap five times over. But it is still a semi-transparent, and those are not the longest lasting types available. Beading water really has nothing to do with anything. How long the sealer remains in tact and keeps REPELLING water is what matters.
Lefty, In your opinion what is the best/longe lasting type out there? FC
fatclemenza, I haven't built a wood deck in almost 10 years!! Around here, the wood of choice for a deck is redwood, and that, in Con Heart, costs as much as most composites, or MORE, depending on the grade of Con Heart that is used. Nobody is looking at doing a wood deck. They are all going with a composite or Azek. Marksr is more the pro to ask your question to. I will tell you this. Based on what I've learned in here, the more solid that the stain is, the longer it will last. That makes sense. A semi-transperant (like Super Deck) is going to let some UV rays pass thru it. Sure, they can put UV inhibitors in it and slow the process, but it's still going to happen. As you move on up the scale to the solid stains, UV rays are blocked, simply by the nature of the product. The trade off is that a solid stain is almost like a paint -- you won't see the color of the wood through it. Marksr -- your thoughts??
Gee, you mean I gotta think As noted a solid stain will outlast a clear or transparent stain.... but most like to see the wood grain while the deck is new. I usually recomend a toner or semi-transparent while the wood is new. Once the wood is really showing the effects of age is when I recomend switching to a solid stain. This might be 15 yrs or more on a well maintained deck but I've seen some only 5 yrs old where solid stain was the best choice - for looks. I love the look of flood's CWF but it doesn't hold up well on anything that gets a lot of sun and rain. SWP's cuprinol looks almost as nice but holds up a little better [they may have changed the name - I ferget] The coating price is a good indicator of quality. Since I mostly use SWP products I use alot of their deck scapes line. Most local paint stores [not dept] will have a good choice of quality deck coatings to choose from. What works great in one enviroment may not get good results in another. Your local paint store should know what works best in your area. In short - check with the locals and find out who has had the best luck with which coatings.
Mark, Pardon my ignorance but would you mind explaining what CWF and SWP is? Thx FC
CWF - clear wood finish, CWF is the product name SWP - sherwin william's paint, used to be the intials on their label
Thanks Sharoneby. You are the first person who said to stay away from Superdeck. A few folks here on the forums said it was great stain and tough to find. The guy at my local HW store raves about it and the store doesn't even carry it. I spoke with SD's customer service folks last week and they were very helpful on the phone. I plan on applying it using a wool brush applicator and regular brush. Will let you know how I make out. FC
fatclemenza, Sharoneby said nothing about Super Deck. Sharoneby said stay away from 5 Minute Fence Stain (and posted the same thing in about 4 or 5 threads!)
Thanks for clarifying lefty. I misread the post. FC
Tags: super, deck, stain, sealer, solid stain, have good, away from, deck coatings, good reputation, have good reputation
Hi, the tongue and groove on my covered front porch is rotting at the ends so I'm replacing it, probably with spaced decking to allow water to run through. I have tons of questions, but first I just want to understand the lumber options at the big stores like home depot/lowes vs smaller lumber yards. I've found lots of lumber type/grade info online, but once I'm staring at the racks in the store the options seem broad and not well defined (at least not to me). For instance I'm considering using 5/4x6'x8' pressure treated pine decking, of which there appear to be several different types according to their end tags (lots of brands, abbreviations and decimal numbers). Can anyone either point me to a resource that explains the lumber options and their uses, or give me the quick tutorial? Thanks, and I'm new here and so far there are tons of great questions and responses to peruse.
Give us some examples of the data you need to understand so we can be specific. Items to consider are lumber grades, moisture content, and amount of treatment chemical present.
I would not use pressure treated lumber, you will probably regret it. I did one of these 6-8 months ago. We bought tg mahogany from a local lumber yard. In order to reduce problems with rott I had the homeowner prime and put one coat of finish on all sides before I started. We also painted the cut ends before installing. The material was not that $$$, especially since we got random length instead of full length boards. Bill
Try google, here is the basic: Softwood Lumber Grading Hardwood Lumber Grading Think about how many front porches you've seen. How many were pressure treated? How many had gaps? Your's would be unique. Be safe, GBR
Before you choose to go to a gapped board, check into Azek Porch. This is a new line that they came out with, so availability may be an issue for a month or so, It's TG, so make sure that there is a slope to the porch to facilitate runoff, which there should be since your current porch is TG.
Sorry for the slow response back. I didn't get any notifications of your responses (email filter probably) so I thought I was ignored! Obviously not, so thanks for the responses. Wirepuller, I was mostly confused by the decimal on the end tags (ex. .40, PT content?), the lack of number grades at places like HD (#1, #2, etc.) that I see in smaller lumber yards, and the use of premium, select, etc. GBR, your link to softwood grading was very useful, cleared it all up. To answer your questions, I can't say how many porches I've seen are PT (can't tell) but many do use the 1x4 TG that is commonly sold as PT for pretty cheap so I assume it is used by some. My neighborhood (Houston Heights) is full of early 1900's renovated homes, so there are lots of very old and new porches. Many of the new covered porches I see are using TG, yet many use 5/4x6 (some radius edge) or thicker with gaps and hidden fasteners. Aesthetically, I've found that warped boards, rotten edges, exposed TG ends, and poor workmanship create a bad look, regardless of material and design. Conversely, a lack of those problems creates a good look despite material. Regardless, TG looks great and I'd love to stick with it if not for the longevity/maintenance issue, on which I'm clueless, so If you can expand on your opinion, I'd love to hear it. I've already been burned once with TG...I assume the previous owner didn't maintain it well...so I'm reluctant. Bill62, I'd also like to know why you think I'd regret PT. I assumed everyone would use PT for any outdoor pine, but I'm noticing a lot of criticism based on shrinking/warping. Lefty, synthetics aren't my thing. I try to stick with renewable products. Plus they're pricey and the Azek Porch can't be painted.
For those of you that have installed or had pellet stoves installed, I have a question. First off, we have an old Aunt Sarah wood burning stove down in our family room on our lowest level of our home. We have decided to replace it with a large pellet stove. Now, there is a chimney (obviously) off of our wood stove that looks to be about 8-10 inches in diameter and it goes up through our ceiling and up out the roof at the top of the house. When I put in the pellet stove, I want to VENT the new stove out this exisiting chimney, so I don't have just an ugly ring here in my ceiling in this room, I figured, since it's there, I may as well use it. The guy at our pellet stove place says it would be expensive to vent the pellet stove through that exisiting chimney. My question would be why?? Can't I just run the 3 or 4 inch pipe up to my ceiling and then tie-into the larger diameter chimney at that point? This is basically my only question I have. I really DON'T want to cut a new hole to vent the pellet stove, if I can use the exisiting wood burning chimney to do the same thing. Let me know your thoughts. Dan
Hi Dan, If your pellet stove is anything like my pellet fireplace insert you may be able to use the existing chimney depending on the size of your vent piping needs for your new stove. What I'm getting at is on my stove there is a 4 flex pipe running up the chimney that is for the exhaust. There is another flex pipe that looks to be around 3 or so for the air intake running side by side each other. If you have an 8 existing chimney in theory it should work providing they can snake them both down. The reason they are talking expensive is the cost of the flex pipe. It is stainless steel and isn't cheap. I guess the bottom line is you are going to be looking at the stove and it's venting a lot longer than the installer is Personally I would rather spend a little more now than be po'd everytime I look at an installation I don't like. A friend of ours just put in a free standing stove kinda like what you are talking and the size of the pipe coming out her wall is simply outrageous. I would never want to see that each and every time I walk out the door.
When I installed our pellet stove, I used a 90 degree elbow of the double walled pipe coming off the stove, then an adapter to convert to the 8 stove pipe, then regular black stove pipe into the chimney.
Thanks for the replies guys. So, I guess I should clarify my question, as to what I am looking for in response. Can I or Can't I use my existing 10 inch diam. double walled wood stove chimney for my new pellet stove? Do I have to run the new 4 inch pellet stove exhaust ALL the way up the old chimney, or can I buy an adaptor plate, that will adapt the 4 inch pellet stove pipe to my 10 inch chimney down in my basement family room, so I don't have to snake a pipe all the way down the old chimney for the new one? Ok, maybe that's more clear. I just don't want to have to make a NEW hole out the side of my house for the pellet stove exhaust, if I CAN use my old wood stoves chimney to route the exhaust in. And for that flexible stainless steel chimney pipe, how much does that cost? Thanks again Dan
Can I or Can't I use my existing 10 inch diam. double walled wood stove chimney for my new pellet stove? Depends on your requirements of the replacement pellet stove...does it need both exhaust and fresh intake? Some posters on this forum will tell you that the inside air of your house will do. Maybe so, but there is a reason the stove companies require fresh air. Could be to prevent problems with a tight house but I have been burning wood for over 40 yrs and will tell you that direct fresh air definately makes a difference, regardless of the outside temp. can I buy an adaptor plate, that will adapt the 4 inch pellet stove pipe to my 10 inch chimney according to another poster the answer seems to be yes then an adapter to convert to the 8 stove pipe, then regular black stove pipe into the chimney. I just don't want to have to make a NEW hole out the side of my house for the pellet stove exhaust, if I CAN use my old wood stoves chimney to route the exhaust in I really don't think you will have to cut a new hole. Like my other post said, if you have an 8-10 existing pipe and worst case scenerio is you need both an exhaust and intake pipe installed, it should still fit. And for that flexible stainless steel chimney pipe, how much does that cost? in my neck of the woods it is $15/ft
most pellet stoves require a lot smaller diameter exhaust pipe.. the way I did mine up in the islands was, I ran another pipe up the center of the old one, putting the 8 adapter both bottom and top.. that reduced the old chimney from the 8 to the 4 new.. I was going to run another pipe along side the 4, like a 2 to draw outside air for the pellet.. but since it was an insert, I just dropped a pipe down through the bottom to the crawl space.. I would imagine there wouldn't be enough draw using 10 chimney on a pellet stove and you'd get a lot of ash collected in the flue.. ?
I am have the same ? I have a mansonary chimmney that is line with a 8 flue not a 8 round pipe but a 8 flue it is 18' ft hight and in great shape. I bought a pellet stove and the isolation instuctions say that in order to use an exsiting mansonary chimmney is must be no more than 10 not a problem my is 8 but it can not be more than 11' ft . My ? is has any one just run thier exhust vent into thier wood chimmney without lining it with 4 pipe and not had any problems? To run a pipe from the pellet stove into this existing chimmney would be an easy install rather than lining the whole chimmney with 4 pipe
what kind of chimmney, mansoary with a flue or a pipe and how high 11 ft or more
I'm not a professional here but one thing that i did to alleviate the cost of +$450.00 on a liner insert was to but 3 or 4 inch double walled pipe, slide it into the existing 8 inch flue that was already there. By doing this (yes the pipe got heavy after a few sections were on and we were holding it from the top of the chimney but it did work. So in short we relined the large chimney with a smaller pellet pipe and where we met the cement wall, we used an 8 inch masonary thimble as the termination point into the home, a 90 off of that and 3 inch pipe down to the Tee cleanout at the stove connector. This runs very well and was about $200.00 in cost as compared to the $450.00 i was quoted for the flex liner kit. 'm not sure if this is the best install method but i can tell you it works and to me is not much different than running a pipe up the side of my house....only now its concealed inside of the chimney.
This is what I'm doing. Just bought a house with a pellet stove that replaced a wood stove. The guy just ran the 3 pipe up the previous 6 collar which leads to the 12 chimney. No 3 - 6 collar, just a large unsealed gap! Plus the stove is not centered, plus the top of the 3 is less than 2 away from the chimney cap. Can't be good for the draft. I just ordered a 6 adaptor ring, 3 to 6 adaptor, Tee, and a 90, so my venting will go directly in to the 12 chimney and also with the tee 90 I'll be able to center the stove under the chimney. I did read somewhere that you couldn't go more than 3x the diameter when connecting to a larger chimney, but I will and will see what happens.
I have a Magic Chef stove with four burners on top. All four burners will not ignite. I dont get that clicking noise. There is gas, because I can manually light all four burners, but the same issue is on all four. Is this an ignitor issue? I can take the top off for cleaning so I was looking around but am lost. I am not really finding any help on the internet with this issue and with Magic Chef's as a whole. Sorry for my lack of knowledge, this is one of those first time appliance repair attempts. I am pretty sure this is Model CGL1120 Thanks!
Probably a failed spark ignition module. You need to identify where the module is located, usually behind a removable sheet metal cover. Check to see if power is applied to the module when you turn on a range burner valve. If you have voltage but no spark, check to see if the second power wire has been broken or gnawed in two by rats. If you've got correct power to the module and it's not sparking replace the module (modules are highly reliable and rarely need to be replaced. Check carefully for defective wiring). If you have no voltage at the module, check for bad wiring. Odds are the module is good and the wiring is the problem.
I have replaced several ignitors, thought this would be another 15 min job. there is no power coming to the ignighter in my magic chef oven. all burners and clock works. Looked for a fuse, saw nothing. I kind of doubt there is a seperate fuse for the oven, but that is why I am here, I an not so smart. 2) I really do not think rats ate the wiring. any other ideas appreciated.
May have one of the conditions already asked and answered here: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ki...k-problem.html Maytag Appliance Home Page: Maytag | Kitchen, Laundry Home Appliances Maytag 1-800-688-9900 USA Maytag 1-800-688-2002 Canada Maytag is also the maker of Amana, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef and Caloric Appliances. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ki...ignighter.html Spark module may be dead and or defective. Replace if need be and there is power to the rest of the appliance and all else works. Additional Advice and Information Here: Read the Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Informational Sticky Note, in this forums topic, for more detailed information. Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808 Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be also. They will need the make, model an serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances. Be sure the electrical power and the gas supply to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever the appliance is moved and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part. Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves and/or keeps the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically and keeps all content on the same subject within one thread.
We have the Maytag Magic Chef here at work and have been noticing that every so often the ignition on the stove top fails to work on all 4 burners. Periodically it begins working again like the problem never occurred. If you could please give some insite to what the problem could be I'd really appreciate it.
I like to read follow up to see if people found a fix. I will report on my range...the answer is NO. I only give up about 10% of the time. this was a ten percenter. I sold the faulty range for $40 and bought a new one.
sdanville.......you jumped on this thread with a different problem. This thread was pertaining to stove top burners and your problem was the oven. Moore 157 Welcome to the forums ! There is one common spark module that runs all four burners. There is a spark control switch on each gas valve. So what exactly is your problem. Does one of the gas valves fail to make the unit spark at all ? or does the spark always work (you can hear it) but it doesn't work at a particular burner ?
PJ I perceived the topic as about ignitors ~ following up from last years thread. Sorry to have jumped in on the do it yourself forum.
No need to be sorry. Your post could have been started as it's own thread as the repair for your oven is different than the repair for the top burners. I just started as a moderator although I have been on the site for a while. I would have moved your post to it's own thread. No problems..... you replaced the range with a new one.
Tags: magic, chef, stove, possible, ignitor, Magic Chef, four burners, have been, Basic Help, doityourself forum, have voltage
Have a gas fired hwt - John Wood Series Pro, how do I get the anode rod out - Many thanks
It should just unscrew by turning counterclockwise. Depending on the age, it may have lots of corrosion and be a bear.If you use a pipe wrench, try putting pressure on the rod and at the same time, tap the top jaw of the wrench with a hammer. Vibration can be a great help at times. Good luck and post back.
To check the anode, turn off the hot and cold water and drain out about 2 gallons of water. Then take out the TP valve and look in the tank with a flashlight. If the anode is there just put the TP back in and check it again next year. If the anode is gone (god forbid) you may want to borrow an electric impact Get a socket to fit the hex and it will come right out. The impact does the trick. Ken
I've got a year-old Whirlpool 50 gal electric, want to replace the anode rod with aluminum, reputed to solve the odor problem. Whirlpool directions say to remove old anode rod with a socket wrench. Hah! Socket wrench, 4' breaker bar, air-driven impact wrench, nothing budges this thing. Must have been built on a Monday. Any ideas?
What your using is what we all might try to use, not sure what else you can try.
I bought a big wrench but could not get the rod loose a little bit. The heater is just two and half years old. At one Home Improvement store, I asked about the Anode Rod and the guy never heard of it. At another one, the person told me that she'd been in plumbing for 10 years and never saw anyone taking the Rod out, and I should not check the Anode Rod at all and just wait for about 7-8 years and then get a new heater. I figured probably she is right because of the way the Anode Rod is installed (the top of the Anode is too small for any tool to work on). Seaport
I just posted the same thing about a week ago. I have practically sheared the head off of the thing with no luck at all. Penetrating oil, ice, tapping, and the kitchen sink and the thing just won't budge. Apparently they screw these suckers down REALLY tight. If you find something that works, please let me know.
I have a almost new Whirlpool Electric Water heater, the odor is so bad I dam near will not bath in it- I have purchased a large socket and have an air Ratchet, it ain't moving it at all. I was going to ask if it comes out counter clockwise, someone here posted that it does. This nut is so tight, I almost believe they want you to destroy the Heater to get it out. How stupid can it get.
turn the water off to the heater and drain a few gallons of water. now get a torch and heat up the head of the anode rod and drip some heated parafin on it. the wax will make it's way through the threads and, hopefully, loosen that bugger up. they will come out, it's just a matter of when and how.
You are right. It is a little ridiculous that they are nearly impossible to remove. Yet if it has to be replaced to get rid of the rotten egg smell, you can't ignore it. The manufacturers probably figure that for everyone that can't be removed, a new tank will be sold at some premature time. Bock expects the anode to be checked anually to keep the warranty in place but we don't remove them to check them. Just eyeball through the TP tapping. I think the heat idea is good. We use a pipe sealer made by Permatex and it is almost impossible to get loose unless you heat it up a little, and it comes apart easily. The sealer I usually see on the anodes is gray and gooey so I don't know if heat will help but it is worth a try. The air ratchet may not have the torque of a 1/2 impact gun either. Ken
It seems like most of the posts talk about replaciong an anode rod but what about removing it completely...taking out the old one and cutting offf the rod and simply replacing the cap? I undestand that the rod is a sacrificial rod that allows the tank to be spared by the attacking water which will attack the magnesium rod first. But how much extra tank life does one get with the rod? I am concerned with smelly water so I need to do someting...replace or eliminate. I have read that using another metal such as aluminum rather than a conventional magnesium rod is also the way to go when trying to eliminate smells. This Old House has a great video showing how this procedure is done.
Replacing the anode rod with an aluminum one would be the recommended procedure. Leaving the anode rod out can be expected to substantially shorten the life of the water heater while putting a new aluminum rod in can be expected to substantially lengthen the life of the tank. Mu current tank was manufacture in 1987. The anode rod I installed ten years ago was pitted but no part of it were missing down to the steel wire. Will I get thirty years or more use out of this tank? Wait and see! It sounds like you already have the old rod out. That's usually the hardest part of the job. I'd get a new aluminum rod and install it.
Tags: remove, anode, john, wood, anode with, anode with aluminum, back check, expected substantially, gallons water, John Wood
Location is New York (borough queens) I've managed to rid my apartment of these stinking German roaches for a few years, but now they are back with a vengeance From 2001-2004 I used the COMBAT roach gel/baits which did a outstanding job. It seems the roaches have gotten immune. I tried to switch to RAID baits but it had very little effect. A friend of mine suggested a illegal product called Tempo. I afraid to handle this product as it must be highly toxic and dangerous to inexperienced users. I have read on the forums that boric acid is a option. Where do they sell this powder and is it worth using? Can anyone give any suggestions, because I'm getting really disgusted with these bugs Thank You Fess
I got boric acid powder in the garden/lawn/pest dept of my local Meijer's store (grocery superstore). I think you can get it most places, like a hardware store or Walmart's or whatever. From what I've read, it's pretty non-toxic to people, and it's very inexpensive--I got a large container for maybe 4 bucks. I read that a light dusting is the way to apply it (I used a mask just to be safe), and it stays good for years if it doesn't get wet. It doesn't kill them immediately, I think it gets into their digestive system and wipes them out in a few days or a week (the pros here know better than me!) I don't know how effective it is on German roaches.
Here's where to order some Maxforce Gel baits, Roache Posse thought it's good stuff. pros use it I think. http://cooperseeds.com/pestproducts....maxforceselect I just ordered some.
Your best bet is to get a contract with a local pest control company. You will need ongoing preventive treatment to keep out the roaches that invade from other apartments. I once lived in such a situation. Management treated my apartment monthly and its perimeter, but there was one lady in the building refused treatment because of allergies. The roaches contintinued to be a problem because of her. I got a petition and got the old lady out of her apartment for a day, despite her allegeries issues because we needed to eliminate the roaches. If you want DIY, then you can use boric acid, which can be carried back to the to the dens of these beasts. If you want professional advice and and treatment, which is what I would do, I would go for it.
Fess, First off, its not really that Tempo is illegal, its just that it is a commercial product. It is not a domestic product that you can buy off the shelves. It is only available to the pest control pro's. I use it fairly regularly(for ants mainly). Boric acid will get you pretty good control. I've never bothered to depend on it only, but use it in conjunction with a bait. Also it does in fact still work when it gets wet. As mentioned above, less is more. When applied properly, you shouldn't even be able to see the layer of dust, not just pouring it out all over the place. Maxforce gel is pretty good stuff to use on Germans, I find it works great most of the time. Its not just us that use it, here in Canada its available on the public market, I don't see how it would be any different in the States. You just have to be sure that you're very thorough in applying it. You want many small applications, rather than just putting a few big globs of it around. To be more sanitary, you can apply the gel in a beer cap for instance(or something similar), and then you can throw it away if and when you solve the problem.(Instead of being left with bits of brown gel in your kitchen cupboards. Please keep in mind however, as Twelvepole suggests, that it would be good to get a regular visit from the pro's. This way, they can stay on top of the problem in the entire building, rather than just you treating for them in your own apartment. And one more thing, always read the label before use. Jay
jhouse, Thanks for the info. I'll check out the acid and the Maxforce Gel baits. twelvepole, I don't know if I would want contract anyone as of yet. I'll save that as a last resort if all else fails. Thanks The Roach Posse That's a pretty good name. That beer cap idea is great. I'll think I'll give it a try. Thanks Well.....i'm off to do battle :mask: Fess
An update to my battle.... I've applied the boric acid in small increments around the necessary areas in my apartment. 1 hour after I finished and got out the show. I went to my kitchen and saw a few roaches covered in white dust, crawling like they were injured. I guess the power's working quickly..... last night I went into my kitchen around 12:30am and only saw 1 as oppose to about 8 or 9 the night prior. I don't want to use the gel yet. Incase they get immune to the acid, I'd like to have the gel as back up. How often do I need to reapply the boric acid? Is it monthly or just when I see signs of their return? Thank You Fess
Use boric acid labeled for roach control. It is a powdered insecticide that can be puffed into cracks, crevices, and voids under drawers, sinks, and appliances where the insects will track through. Body hairs of insects collect the powder and carry it back to the nest. When insects preen themselves and others, they ingest the boric acid and die. Roaches do not build up a resistance. Reapply as needed.
Great, thanks. Fess
Tags: german, roaches, boric acid, pretty good, Fess boric, Fess boric acid, good stuff, just that, Maxforce baits, pest control, rather than, rather than just, than just
I detest vertical blinds, but unfortunately as a renter I am cursed with them at my sliding glass doors. I want to hang the beautiful curtains and swags that I have, but I cannot find any hardware that projects far enough to clear the blinds. I am not suppose to take the blinds down and I wouldn't have anywhere to store them anyway. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can get these ugly blinds covered over, by my pretty curtains? I have scoured the web and have been unable to find any help.
i've found it difficult to look for drapery hardware on the internet. try going in person to a drapery store/department. you'll find them (they do exist). measure how far out your verticals project so you'll know how much projection you need to clear.
Finding a rod with a return large enough to use with verticals are available to buy off the shelf at several stores (Bed, Bath and Beyond and JCPenney's). Vertical vanes are generally 3 1/2 wide so even if they are mounted outside the window then you would need a rod with a return greater than 3 1/2. Be sure to take into consideration the thickness of the fabric you will be hanging in order to figure the return size. Sounds like you only really need a return of probably 5 or 6 . Kirsch offers curtain rods with a return up to 7 or 8 and they also have an extender kit that adds 1 at a time to the return so you could end up with a 10 or so return if needed. Just be sure to use the extra support bracket that comes with the extender kit for support in the center of your rod.
Hi, I was having the same problem and went to a drapery store thanks to advice here. I found this brand Umbra makes brackets that adjust 3 to 4.5 inches. They didn't have enough for me at the store, so the guy told me that Bed, Bath Beyond and Big Lots both carry Umbra.
This question was asked 3 years ago and the person that asked, hasn't been here since.
For about 180 bucks you could cover those existing vertical blinds with a sheer material called an ado wrap.. Most common these are made from a sheer material and will wrap around each individual vinyl slat with the help of a an easy button system up top and a pocket down below.. They look good google/image/ado wrap
I am having the same problem - I have these nice and expensive vertical blinds that I want to keep - these gives enough insulation during summer and winter but I also want to hang some nice curtains over those. It looks like I need brackets that have at least 6n to 7 inches of projections from the wall. I couldn't find those kind of brackets in big stores like JC Penny, Sears, Bed and Bath, Loews or Home Depots. Can anyone suggest me where should I find those kind of brackets? Any speciality drapery store? I don't even know where can I find those stores in Boston area. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks, SUddin
You'll have to get them thru either a store that sells custom draperies and hardware or a designer or have them special ordered for you. I only know wholesale sources and I don't know the Boston area. Another option would be ceiling brackets. You mount them wherever they need to be and drop the rod in it. Here's one online source so you can see them. I'm sure there are other sources. Country Curtains#174;: Curtains, Valances, Curtain Rods Drapes Sheffield Ceiling Brackets - Country Curtains#174;
Its better to find drapery hardware outside and not just on the internet. You will be able to see the exact sizes, actual color and texture of the products plus there are a lot of items to choose from. No hassle on your shopping.
It's pretty hard to find what they're looking for in a store.
I suggest you guys go to a drapery showroom and explain your needs. Any shop is happy to make an extra few bucks by ordering you hardware out of a Graber, Kirsh, levelor, etc. book. The paint/decorator shops are always very helpful for this sort of thing. In chicago, Benjamin Moore pain shops are the place to go.
Try this place. You can order Drapery brackets with various projections directly from them online. Here's a link blindsparts.com
Thread has ran it's course.
Tags: curtains, vertical, blinds, with return, drapery store, find those, vertical blinds, Bath Beyond, Boston area, brackets that
Stanley Bostitch pancake air compressor model # CAP60P-OF runs but will not build pressure. Gauge will eventually read about 15 psi and a small amount of air will vent when I open the relief valve, but that's it. This is what I have done so far: 1. Drain **** is closed. 2. Removed aluminum line at head, supplies air. 3. Removed aluminum line at tank fitting, supplies air. 4. Removed small, black line at tank fitting, supplies air. 5. Removed head, gasket looks fine and no obvious defects found to piston. I heard something rattling inside the head while I had it removed, shook it and a thin piece of metal fell out. Round in shape with one side jagged like it snapped off. 6. Adjusted pressure regulator, inside power switch cover, both directions.
Welcome to the forums! The thin piece of metal was probably a part of a reed valve that is needed to build pressure in the tank. Google the model number and get a part number for the reed valves and replace them and let us know how it goes.
Bostitch CAP60P-OF Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com Going to need, intake valve, valve plate, and new head gasket. If I had it that far apart I'd also remove the whole cylinder and check the piston rings and cylinder walls.
Tags: bostitch, compressor, runs, build, pressure, supplies Removed, aluminum line, fitting supplies, fitting supplies Removed, head gasket, line tank
In doing some research on putting up a fence I came across this forum and thus gained a good deal of general knowledge from the various posts. As I have never built a fence before, I am not completely sure of the best way to do this. If anyone sees anything wrong with what I'm planning, please let me know. First, a little background. I decided to build a 6' wood privacy fence on both sides of my house. The fence will run from the middle sides of the house out to the property line, and then back to the rear property line. As I have fairly limited time and don't want to spend a small fortune hiring a contractor, I will be DIYing it using pre-built board-on-board 6' x 8' panels from Lowes. I've ordered the panels, 4 x 4 x 10 PT posts (I get the impression wood posts aren't terribly popular here....too late now though), bags of rock, many bags of Quikrete, and stainless steel screws. My plan is to start at the house and dig post holes between 36 and 42 deep (the deeper ones on the corners) every 8ft. I'll be modifying this spacing in two areas where there will be gates. I'll then drop a bag of rock into each hole, then place the 10' post into the hole and brace it. I'll then mix the Quikrete, place in hole, adjust so it is level and 8' OC between posts, then slope concrete away from post. After the concrete sets, I'll cut tops of posts (45 degree angle) to uniform height....like 5 1/2' above grade (anyone know if a standard circular saw will do the job here?). I'll then place the panels against the posts and screw each one down. One question I have is this: Is it better to have the concrete slightly above grade, thus the post in hole would have rock on bottom, then post surrounded by dirt for a foot, then the concrete......or is it okay to do rock then post surrounded by concrete, then dirt on top? I want to sink my posts pretty deep but don't want to have to throw 6 bags of concrete in each hole just to make it to the top. Next question is this: Is there an easy way to ensure accurate spacing between posts? As I'll be screwing the panels onto the posts, I'll need the edge of each panel centered on the posts which seems like it may be tough to get the posts that perfectly spaced. Finally, I read some instructions for building a fence with these panels where the author said to attach the fence panels to the posts before setting the posts in concrete, i.e. assemle the fence first and then lift up into place, brace, then pour concrete into the post holes. This seems a little nutty and not terribly practical, but maybe someone has heard of this? Thanks for any advice!
StuckInFL, Welcome to DoItYourself.com and the Fence forum. You're right -- I'm one of those who doesn't have a very high opinion of wood posts stuck in the dirt, but since that's what you've got, go with them. The reasoning behind pre-assembling the posts to the panels before burying the posts is to eliminate the problem of getting the posts perfectly spaced. (I'm not a fan of the pre-made panels, either, for just that reason!) Using the pre-made panels and pre-assembling, you'll have to build the fence one panel at a time. Start at one of the back corners, set the corner post, and you can work in two directions from that. You can get several panels a day in by bracing the posts to keep them plumb, and it takes the guess work out of post spacing, which has to be perfect.
Is it too late to change your mind about the panels? Panels are - not good. If you do a search, there was someone that posted just a couple weeks ago that their panels were warping and self destructing after a short period of time. I've checked them out. The pickets are very thin and the backing rails are also smaller than the usual 2x3 size. I'd call your local fence supply company and see what some panels from them will cost. (With real 2x3 backing and 3/4 thick pickets.) If you're on a budget, check out spruce stockade fencing and use a high quality sealer to help preserve it.
Most areas require a building permit for fences. These often dictate height and type of material used. Some housing developments also have restrictions as to type of fencing materials to be used.
having just built about 60 linear feet of wooden fence, I'd say that it seems that pre-built panels might be more of a pain than youd think. My fence post spacing required some variability in each post- big root, chunk of concrete from old fence, etc. It really wasn't that hard- of course my father in law helped and he has built about 10 fences in his day. Anyway, so much of it seemed to require small variations that I don't see how you could do it off site, with panels. Plus, supposedly those big store panels are pretty bad. None of it was that hard, just do it by scratch! 4x4 posts, 3 2x4 rails, 2x8 or whatever rot board, and nice pressure treated pickets. Hardest part is getting the posts in straight and level, after that it is pretty easy.
Thank you for the advice....I really appreciate it. My current situation is that I own my home but am planning on selling in the next year (definitely) and thus am just looking to add something to the house while not breaking the bank. If this was the house I was going to stay in, I would look hard at building the fence from scratch, however due to an extreme lack of time (work full-time, go to school 3/4 time, have a wife and son) that wasn't an option at this point. That being said, I was fairly impressed with the board-on-board panels I got from Lowes. Time will of course tell how well they stay together, and I'm sure the fence would be better quality by far if built with better wood by myself, but still they look good and are sturdy and straight. The area I needed fenced was flat with zero obstructions, thus spacing posts every 8 feet was no issue. To give everyone an update...the first weekend I put in all posts (between 36 and about 45 inches deep dependent on their location) with concrete. This past weekend I put up all panels and was surprised with how well they fit. It rained most of Sunday afternoon and thus I didn't get to building the two gates. I'll snap a few pictures and post once those are up. Thanks again for the advice guys. StuckInFL
After 3 years how are the panels holding up? Just curious as a few said the panels are cheaply built.
Tags: build, wooden, privacy, fence, panels, panels from, above grade, between posts, board-on-board panels, board-on-board panels from, board-on-board panels from Lowes, brace then, building fence
There is more to the screwdriver family than the well-known flathead and Phillips screwdrivers. In fact, you might want to add triangle to the types of screwdrivers available. Just as flatheads are used on single-slot screws and Phillips screwdrivers are used to drive cross-shaped screws, the less popular triangle screwdriver is designed to drive triangular-shaped screws.
Common Applications
Unlike Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, the triangle screwdriver serves a more specialized function. For example, it is most commonly used on children's toys found in fast food meals. These types of toys are typically manufactured in large quantities and held together by triangular screws. Another common application is Roomba Robot Vacuums. Such appliances, which automatically vacuum rooms, are held together by triangular screws at their battery compartments. Failing to own a triangle screwdriver can make maintaining these appliances difficult.
Make Your Own
You can purchase triangle screwdrivers in stores, or you could create a makeshift one yourself. If you take the latter route, all you will need is an old screwdriver and a bench grinder. Then take the tip of the old screwdriver to the bench grinder and form the end of the bit until it is in a triangular shape. This can also be accomplished by grinding old Allen wrenches into a triangular shape.
Life Span
With the limited number of triangle screwdriver applications, you might think that these types of tools aren't made as robust as Phillips or flathead screwdrivers. But this is not the case. For example, many triangle screwdrivers are made from a chrome vanadium steel shank hardened to resist stripping. They are also commonly equipped with features such as ABS plastic handles to allow users a firm, comfortable grip. Such a grip also allows users to apply more torque. These tools are not disposables; they are meant to last.
Other Information
Triangle screwdrivers are necessary only for a small number of applications. But one thing to consider is that using a Phillips or flathead screwdriver on triangle-screw applications could damage your screwdriver, the screw and the part you are working on. Triangle screwdrivers are not going to break the bank, either. Generally, they run about $5, similar to the cost of Phillips and flathead screwdrivers. It is well worth the small investment should you encounter a rare triangular screw.
As a home or business owner it is often necessary to install a privacy fence. There are several types of plastic privacy fence options to choose from. Each option has its own level of privacy, style and expense. There are three main options to choose from in plastic privacy fencing: plastic slats, plastic fiber knit and plastic sheerline. Each style of privacy fence has pros and cons, based on how it will be used.
Plastic slat
An effective and popular style of plastic privacy fence is the plastic slat fence. This fencing option makes use of plastic slats that are woven into a chain link fence to create a limited amount of privacy. There are several styles of slat fencing to choose from. Threaded slats are the most popular style of privacy fence and come in several styles. This type of fence offers a moderate to high level of privacy. Top lock and bottom lock styles keep the slats from falling out over time by using a locking row at either the top or the bottom of the fence. Plastic slat fences typically have a large variety of colors to choose from. This style of fencing allows a moderate level of privacy and lasts for a very long time.
Plastic fiber knit
Plastic fiber knit is a good option for privacy and is great for temporary projects such as construction. Fiber knit can be applied to a preexisting chain link fence or it can be attached to temporary fencing. Woven privacy fences offer a very high amount of privacy and are very economical. Most products are unsightly and are recommended for use with industrial and commercial projects. The knits can come in a variety of colors and sizes and can have imprints of logos and advertisements printed on them. This style can be heavily modified to fit most any type of project
Sheerline
Sheerline fencing can be installed for the highest amount of privacy. Sheerline fencing uses plastic beams and cross hatching to construct an entire fence that is made from plastic. Sheerline fences come in several styles that allow for a large amount of customization. These fences often provide a very strong amount of both privacy and security. However, the colors that are typically provided are quite limited and this style of privacy fence can be one of the more costly and difficult to install.
Washerless faucets come in single-lever or two-handle varieties, and are stronger than traditional washer-based faucets. However, washerless faucets do develop leaks and other problems over time. It is possible to repair your washerless faucet on your own if you know what to look for.
Ball Handles
Ball faucets use a hollow or metal ball inside the faucet's body to rotate the faucet's handle. If the handle of the faucet begins leaking, you will need to adjust the adjusting ring, which is located under the handle. You can remove the handle by removing the set screw, which is generally located on the underside of the handle. Remove the handle and adjust the adjusting ring. If this does not solve the problem, you may need to remove and replace the cam washer. The cam washer is located inside the spout sleeve, which will be attached to the spout itself. Further disassembly may be required if the faucet continues to leak. The valve seat, or springs that are located under the sink level, may be worn and need to be replaced.
Disc Faucet
A disc faucet runs along a disc attached to the sink. These move left to right to control the temperature of the water. The disc itself will rarely wear out, but the rubber washers underneath the disc may wear due to corrosion. On a single-handle disc faucet there will be three washers that control hot, cold and mixed water. To access the washers, remove the set screw from the underside of the handle. This can be removed using an Allen wrench. Remove the trim cap from the sink and remove the two screws from the faucet body. Check that the inlet seals are free of wear. Replace any that are corroded or out of alignment. Make sure to keep the alignment the same as they were when taken out.
Two Handled Faucets
Two-handled faucets are rotated along a seal and spring set that controls the water. If the faucet is leaking, remove the cap of the handle and the handle screw. You will be able to remove the handle and the bonnet nut. Remove the stem unit and the O-ring from the faucet assembly. This will be under the bonnet nut. If this looks cracked or worn, replace it with a new piece. If the faucet continues to leak you may need to replace the seal underneath the stem unit. The seal and spring can be removed using needle-nose pliers.
If the water lines that supply your kitchen faucet are too short, the water flow will be hindered and the lines will likely leak underneath the sink. Use flexible stainless steel supply lines as replacements for the easiest installation. When you replace the water lines, your biggest hurdles will likely be maneuvering around within the dark, cramped space underneath the kitchen sink, and reaching the nuts that connect the water lines to the faucet and shut-off valves.
Instructions
1. Shine a flashlight underneath the sink, and locate the hot and cold water shut-off valves. The valves are normally located on the rear wall underneath the sink. Twist both the hot and cold water shut-off valves completely to the right.
2. Turn on both the faucet's hot and cold water handles. Lift the faucet lever straight up, in the neutral position, if the faucet is a single-lever model. This releases any remaining pressure in the water lines.
3. Unscrew and disconnect the nuts on both the hot and cold water supply lines, connecting the lines to the shut-off valves. Use an adjustable wrench. Unscrew and disconnect the nuts on the other end of the lines, connecting the lines to the faucet inlets, using the adjustable wrench. Disconnect the water line from the faucet inlets using a basin wrench, if you are unable to reach the nuts with the adjustable wrench. The basin wrench is specifically designed to reach these hard-to-reach connections underneath the sink.
4. Measure the old supply lines, using a tape measure. Measure the distance from the nipples on the shut-off valves to the nipples on the hot and cold water inlets underneath the faucet, using the tape measure. Make certain that the replacement supply lines are long enough.
5. Wrap plumber's tape around the nipples on both the hot and cold water shut-off valves. Wrap the tape a couple of loops around each nipple.
6. Connect the replacement supply lines to the shut-off valves, tightening the nuts with an adjustable wrench. Connect the other end of the supply lines to the corresponding hot or cold water inlets underneath the faucet. Tighten the nuts with the adjustable wrench, being sure not to over tighten.
7. Turn on the hot and cold water shut-off valves. Check for any leaks from the supply lines, from where they connect to the shut-off valves and the faucet inlets. Tighten the nuts, if there is a leak. Turn on the faucet's hot and cold water, and again check for any leaks from the supply lines. Tighten any connections, using the adjustable wrench, if necessary.
The heads on this Evolution powered Harley are beneath the chrome rocker boxes under the gas tank.
Head removal for a 1988 Evolution-powered Sportster is the same whether the motorcycle has an 883 cubic centimeters or 1200 cubic centimeters engine. It can be accomplished by a skilled mechanic without removing the engine from the frame or removing the gas tank. It is a chore that is easier to describe than to do, but the tear down should not take longer than 90 minutes. An entire top end job including the removal of both cylinder heads and reassembly is considerably more complicated and takes significantly longer.
Instructions
1. Close the petcock. Run the motorcycle in neutral until the bike stops. Disconnect the enrichener knob and cable from the clip under the fuel tank.
2. Remove the air cleaner cover after loosening the two the bolts on the front of the cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner.
3. Remove the air cleaner, then the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench.
4. Loosen the fuel line from the carburetor with a flathead screwdriver and remove the fuel line by hand. Remove the idle and throttle cables from the throttle cam on the top front of the carburetor.
5. Remove the carburetor and the enrichener assembly from the engine by pulling the carburetor from the intake manifold.
6. Disconnect both header pipes from the exhaust manifold on the right side of the motorcycle with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the copper crush gaskets from the exhaust manifold.
7. Loosen both oxygen sensors from the header pipes with an open end wrench. Disconnect the mufflers from the muffler support bracket with an open end wrench.
8. Pull the entire exhaust system from the motorcycle.
9. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the cylinder head you intend to remove. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.
10. Loosen the 6 bolts that hold the rocker cover to the cylinder head one half turn at a time in a crossing pattern with an Allen wrench. Remove the rocker box cover.
11. Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the rocker box cover gasket.
12. Unbolt the breather assembly from the rocker arm support plate with a hex socket and a socket wrench.
13. Cut both pushrods under the head you intend to remove with bolt cutters. Remove the pieces.
14. Gradually loosen all four cylinder head bolts in the exact sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle one quarter turn at a time with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the head after all four head bolts are completely loose.
Toast golden flax seeds to create a rich, nutty flavor.
Flax seeds help reduce your risk of diabetes, heart disease, cancer and stroke. They also aid digestion and reduce the symptoms of menopause, arthritis and menstruation. Because they contain healthy nutrients, such as fiber, antioxidants and omega-3 oil, consuming 1 or 2 tbsp. of flax seeds each day can improve your health. Unfortunately, flax seeds have a bland flavor. By toasting them, though, you can make the taste more appealing.
Instructions
1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Pour enough flax seeds in the baking pan to just cover the bottom of the pan. Do not allow the flax seeds to lay on top of each other. You'll need an even layer for even toasting.
3. Bake for three to four minutes, stirring occasionally. Shake the pan gently to even out seeds in the pan after you stir them.
4. Take the pan out of the oven, and allow the flax seeds to cool.
5. Store toasted flax seeds in an air-tight container at room temperature.
Tips Warnings
Toast flax seeds in a tiny bit of oil, then sprinkle healthy spices like turmeric, cumin, ginger, curry or garlic powder on them while they are still warm. This increases the flavor even more than just the toasting.
You can grind flax seeds into a flour or meal, toast them or eat them raw.
Sprinkled toasted flax seeds on top of cereal, oatmeal, eggs or salad.
Watch carefully while toasting as flax seeds burn quickly.
Some people have an allergic reaction to flax seeds, so when implementing them into your diet, start with just 1/2 tsp. and check for any reaction.
A leading flax researcher in Canada, Lillian Thompson states, Pregnant women and breast cancer patients on tamoxifen or other breast cancer drugs should not eat flax until more studies on humans are performed.
Flax seeds may interact with medication. Check with your pharmacist or doctor to determine if the medication you're taking is susceptible.
Creating a delicious home-cooked meal for your family can leave your home, clothing and hair smelling like a fry cook. Grease fills your home with an unpleasant aroma that attaches itself to various surfaces. This smell can last for days and reintroduce itself whenever items such as upholstery are disturbed. Even after a thorough cleaning, the grease smell can linger and continue to stink up your home. Fortunately, you can remove the grease smell from various surfaces using common and inexpensive items.
Instructions
Air
1. Remove the grease odor by opening the windows to allow fresh air to fill your home. Help push the grease smell out of your home by running fans for several hours.
2. Pour 2 cups of white vinegar in a pot on your stove. The vinegar will absorb the grease odors from the air.
3. Run a HEPA filter air purifier. Air purifiers remove tiny particles -- such as odor -- from the air, leaving it cleaner and smelling better.
Clothing
4. Turn your washing machine dial to the coldest water temperature. Pour 1/4 cup of laundry detergent into the detergent receptacle. If no receptacle is present, pour the detergent directly in the water.
5. Submerge the clothing with the grease smell into the water and close the washer lid or door. Allow the washer to finish the washing cycle.
6. Stop the washing machine and pour 1 to 2 cups of white vinegar directly into the washer drum. Close the lid or door and start the washing machine.
7. Examine the clothing after the washing machine completes the cycle. Repeat the process if the grease odors persists.
Upholstery, Carpets and Walls
8. Pour white vinegar in a clean spray bottle and mist upholstery. Let the vinegar dry and -- if needed -- repeat the process until the odor is no longer apparent.
9. Dampen a clean sponge or cloth with white vinegar and gently wipe smelly walls. Let the walls air-dry.
10. Apply baking soda on carpet and let sit for several hours before removing the baking soda with your vacuum.
Tips Warnings
Prevent grease odors by using the vent above your stove when cooking.
Suede is leather brushed and reversed to a velvety napped finish. While sophisticated suede boots are the ultimate winter footwear companions for cashmere scarves and your favorite wool outerwear, the fragile fabric attracts dirt and grime easily. If your suede boots have unsightly black marks, you can use an effective cleaning remedy to remove scuffs quickly and protect the nap from discoloration and damage.
Instructions
1. Brush off loose dirt. Use a vacuum cleaner attachment to remove surface dust and dirt. Using the attachment, skim your suede boots to remove dirt and loosen the grime attached to the black scuffs.
2. Remove trapped dirt with a suede brush. Before removing the deep scuff marks, gently scrub the soiled area with the short bristles of a suede brush. Loosen dirt around the scuffed areas by gently rubbing the brush against the grain of the suede.
3. Clean black scuff marks with an emery board or suede eraser. Rub the soiled area gently to remove the black marks from your suede boots. Brush the shoes in one direction to revive the suede.
4. Raise the nap. Brush your suede boots with a stiff clothing brush or terry cloth towel to lift the nap. To raise flattened suede nap, steam the footwear by holding them over a tea kettle.
5. Use a silicone spray to protect shoes. After every second or third wearing, spray your suede boots with a fabric protectant. The silicone protects the color of the boots from fading while resisting stains and water spots. Spray the silicone spray lightly-for two to three seconds-to coat your suede boots.
Tips Warnings
If your suede shoes are wet, first blot them dry using an old T-shirt or old rag.
While suede stones and sandpaper will remove scuff marks from your suede boots, these products are not as effective as a small-bristled suede brush.
Perform a suede patch test. Before removing the scuff marks, test the suede to prevent permanent damage and discoloration.
Although there is no certification required to become a sewing machine repair professional, the profession does require technical training to understand how all the levers and pulleys inside the sewing machine work together to create seams. The job itself can be a practical way to make a living, beyond just repairing the sewing machines of friends and family members.
Instructions
1. Look for sewing machine repair classes in your area. See the Resources below for sewing repair classes. Some schools even offer videos you can order to help teach you to repair sewing machines.
2. Look for an apprenticeship. Many sewing machine repair stores will have employees with decades of experience. Often, they may need help or will be willing to teach their trade to you. Talk to employees at your local sewing machine repair shop to see if they or anyone they know is looking for an apprentice or is willing to teach sewing machine repair.
3. Practice on old sewing machines. Practice makes perfect, and sewing machines are always available at thrift stores. Many are even in need of repair. Once you have gained some knowledge, consider purchasing these old sewing machines, repairing them and then re-selling them for extra income.
4. Spread your business through word-of-mouth. Before opening your own shop, you may want to establish a clientele first. Go to fabric stores and see if they need a sewing machine technician. Many fabric stores offer the option, but if they don't already have someone, they may send a few clients your way.
Give a shy man a gift that will help him break out of his shell.
If you have a friend or a loved one who is shy, you may want to get him a gift that fits his quiet, introspective personality. A shy man does not want to feel that you are trying to change him. However, a gift that helps him break out of his shell could be useful and appreciated as long as it is tasteful and respectful.
Movable Library
Fill an old woven basket with hardcover books of your friend's favorite titles. You can mix in a few of his favorite magazines, a few of your favorite reads and even a rolled copy of his favorite newspaper. By stimulating his mind with intellectual and educational pursuits, this basket makes a great gift for a shy man who likes to relax, read and think through things.
Day at the Beach
Fill a beach bag with a volleyball, two towels, sunscreen, a Frisbee and a few snacks and bottles of water. Blindfold your friend or loved one and drive him to the beach for a day of fun, sun and quiet activities such as people watching. This gift works well if you live within driving distance of a beach, lake or other body of water.
Public Speaking Class
If you have a friend who has been wanting to improve his public speaking and his comfort level in front of crowds, consider purchasing a public speaking course for him to take at a local community college or university in your area. This is a thoughtful, useful gift, but should be considered carefully. Purchase this gift only if you have heard your friend express an interest in taking a public speaking course. Otherwise, this gift might offend him.
Photography or Art Class
Consider purchasing a photography or art class for a shy friend. Art allows a person to express himself without vocalizing anything, and this is especially the case for art formed on canvas or behind a lens. You also can purchase art or camera equipment and put together a kit, depending on your budget.
Dad's birthday should be as special and thoughtful as he is.
Fatherly birthday gifts can be tough to buy, often because it's hard for sons and daughters to think of Dad as an individual and not just a father. Before buying a birthday gift for your father, dig a little deeper into who he is --- as a person --- to discover a gift you can be sure he'll be genuinely delighted to receive.
Sporting Equipment
A new set of golf clubs can stimulate Dad to get back on the fairway.
Rummage through Dad's collection of sports gear and look for items that need to be fixed or replaced as well as things that need to be thrown out and upgraded. Chances are, you'll find both, since many dads put off buying gifts for themselves. Are his golf clubs as old as you? Invest in a new set for him if you can afford it; if that's too pricey, settle for one or two new clubs and a basket of golf accessories (visor, tees, balls, etc.). If you notice things that need to be fixed, haul them into the repair shop and foot the bill. Something as simple as mending the soles on a favorite pair of hiking boots can be an especially thoughtful gift for your father.
Professional Consultation
Throw in a good book to complete your father's jump-started project.
Give your dad a little push to work on a project or activity he's been putting off for a while by arranging a consultation with a professional in the field. Does he want to remodel the back deck? Hire a carpenter to spend a few hours brainstorming and planning with your dad. Or, maybe he wants to start playing the stock market. In that case, hire a broker or financial analyst to explain the ins and outs of Wall Street and run him through a few practice buys and sells. Since the consultation will be just a one-time experience, buy your Dad the best, most authoritative book (or a couple of books) you can find on the subject.
Hire a professional to help give your dad a new look. If he is thick-skinned and has a good sense of humor, hire a style consultant to help update your dad's wardrobe and appearance. Doing so will give him a renewed sense of youth and energy. Personal shoppers can help Dad make new clothing choices.
Trip
Get the map and pick a place for you and Dad to get away together.
Spend some quality time with your dad for his birthday; take him on a trip you know he'll enjoy. Is he an outdoors enthusiast? Take him whitewater rafting or hiking on the closest mountains (or the Appalachian Trail!). Is he an admitted history buff? Plan a road trip together that takes you on a journey through fascinating historical points of interest. Does he love music? Hit the road armed with tour dates and local band calendars. Let him pick the bands and venues; you buy the tickets and enjoy getting to hang out with your dad on his birthday.
Just got my first estimate to replace my air conditioner and furnace. I was ready for everything he threw at me until it got to the variable speed furnace. I wanted to get others opinions on the Trane XV furnaces. I understood the difference between single-stage and two-stage but wasn’t sure about the variable speed part. I was told that with the variable speed furnace I could run the fan 24 hours a day and it would act as a ‘whole house’ air filter. He said it would help with pet smells and dust build up. He also made sure to tell me that this wasn’t the end all be all and wouldn’t filter out everything but said is would be a nice option to have. It is about a $200 difference between the two-stage variable speed furnace and the single-stage furnace. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the variable speed furnace and if it was worth the extra money. Thanks. Bryan
bryan0514 You don't say where you are located in country nor the type of home you have but variable speed is worth it and here's why. 1.operating efficiency less expensive to operate than direct drive conventional blower 2.quiet-it is very quiet fan on 24/7 you will not hear it has slow ramp up and slow ramp down when in cooling or heating mode 3.room to room comfort you will not have temperature difference from room to room assuming you have good ductwork 4. dehumidifiaction In AC mode, variable speed will help dehumidify home and allow you to have higher thermostat temperature while still maintaining wonderful inside comfort. Very effective if you live in climate that has hot humid summers. 5.Air quality If you equip your system with a quality 5 pleated media cabinet, your inside air quality will improve along with reduced dust. I do not like EACs. 6.savings- the 2 speed variable speed furnace are rated at 92+ AFUE and will save you $$$ on gas consumption. Yes,variable speed furnace works like Trane says it does. I installed XV90 furnace with HE heat pump(dual fuel) 6 mths ago and am very satisfied. My opinion-Trane is quality equipment. Hope this is helpful. Good Luck!
TigerDunes, Thanks for the reply. I have a 1,500 sq ft house in Nothern, CA. Probably going with the XV80. The variable speed sounded a little to good to be true. Thanks again for you input. Bryan
bryan0514 One other thought. I would insist upon a written Manual J heat/cool load calculation for properly sizing equipment. This is the professional method of doing business and provides a certain measure of protection for both the homeowner and the dealer. While I am unfamiliar with gas and electric rates in California, you would be doing yourself a disservice if you don't run a fuel comparison bewteen electric heat pump and gas furnace. Easy to do. See below. Trane high efficient heat pumps with variable speed air handler are the best! Check the math. http://www.warmair.net/html/fuel_cost_comparisons.htm Hope this is helpful. Good Luck!
Tags: trane, variable, speed, furnaces, variable speed, speed furnace, variable speed furnace, variable speed, with variable, with variable speed, Bryan bryan0514, difference between
( I am from Hong Kong, no experience but interested) what do you think of Ryobi One Plus system, it seems very convenient, just 18 volt cordless power tools, batteries, and chargers all are individual for own combination, can save $ of buying batteries. Do you think it is really convenient? whole combo have 10 cordless power tools, it is enough? just give some suggestion or comment let's discuss, i want to know more~^^
Let me start off by mentioning I'm a DIY kinda guy (learning, but still...DIY). I bought the starter combo, which included the flashlight, drill, 5 1/2circular saw, 2 batteries and a quick charger. The flashlight is suprisingly very bright and the head swivels. The drill works rather well too. The saw isn't as big as the more traditional size of 7 1/4circular saws, but it isn't supposed to be at 18V. I've since bought other +One tools, as I did like the quality vs. price. This is my collection to date... Flashlight Drill Circular Saw Corner Cat sander Impact driver (this little guy is awesome...favorite of the bunch) Spiral Saw (tile work, drywall cuts at work) Reciprocating saw (pruning trees, cutting pipe) I like Ryobi for what I need. I don't use them everyday, but I use them often enough either at home or work to know that I like them. I haven't had a battery run out on me other than the circular saw. However, I did use a battery that was on my drill rather than right off the charger. I would rather have a 7 1/4 version of the 18V circular saw, but maybe that's just being greedy. Some may downgrade Ryobi because of the build quality vs. higher brands (like Makita, Milwaulkee, etc...), but I have to say, for me....they're pro quality. DO NOT BUY THE NAIL GUN!!!
I did forget to mention that when buying the tools separately, they don't come with a battery. The two that come with the kit should be enough though. I did however, buy another one...just in case.
Thanks for your reply, actually, do you think it is suitable for a starter? do you have more suggestions or comments on it? Is it easy to use? any danger.... do you think a female can handle home improvement with this series? I am a girl, and... any other girls can reply me .......? thx
Originally Posted by Rapture DO NOT BUY THE NAIL GUN!!! what are the problems of the nail gun ??
I have been very happy with my 18V kit of: Drill Circular Saw Reciprocating saw (Saws all) Flashlight My kit came with the hand vac, which I have found to be useless. The 18V units are much heavier than the 14V or 12V so pick the drill up at the store and determine for yourself if you can handle it all right. It appears to me that the 14 and 12V models are starting to become extinct, but I could be wrong. Overall, as a part-time DIY I'd recommend the Ryobi. Also see http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=240208 on this site. (Anyone use the 18V caulking gun?) Don
I have the combo kit almost two years old , they meet my expectations . the chainsaw is a joke I do much better/faster with the reciprocating saw with a aggressive wood blade. the switch went out on the drill a few weeks ago while I was putting up shutters for hurricane Wilma , not wanting to be without a drill in case it hit here (it went south of us ) I went to home depot and bought the one plus 3 speed hammer drill which I had been looking at anyway since I have a job coming up where I will be drilling a lot of prestressed concrete . as I have mentioned before I see them used on a lot of job sites locally by tradesmen . I use mine professionally but usage is probably closer to serious DIY as they dont get used every day and when they are it is usually for short periods . I wouldn't discount the quality on ryobi , in my experience they are equal to the makita, dewalt and milwaukee that I have owned (and replaced)
Originally Posted by kakakawai Thanks for your reply, actually, do you think it is suitable for a starter? do you have more suggestions or comments on it? Is it easy to use? any danger.... do you think a female can handle home improvement with this series? I am a girl, and... any other girls can reply me .......? thx Easy answer to your question is yes. Very easy to use. And...they are blue...girls love blue
Originally Posted by kakakawai what are the problems of the nail gun ?? 90% of users that have commented on this gun have given negative comments. They say it won't drive all the way down. I would stay away from it until they come out with an improved version. My opinion of course.
Originally Posted by dwcurry I have been very happy with my 18V kit of: Drill Circular Saw Reciprocating saw (Saws all) Flashlight My kit came with the hand vac, which I have found to be useless. The 18V units are much heavier than the 14V or 12V so pick the drill up at the store and determine for yourself if you can handle it all right. It appears to me that the 14 and 12V models are starting to become extinct, but I could be wrong. Overall, as a part-time DIY I'd recommend the Ryobi. Also see http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=240208 on this site. (Anyone use the 18V caulking gun?) Don I've only heard from people who have used the caulking gun...they have said that even on the lowest setting, it comes out too fast. I personally haven't used it, so I can't comment any further.
Originally Posted by Rapture Easy answer to your question is yes. Very easy to use. And...they are blue...girls love blue O i see, but why ...... all of you seems dislike the preset combo kit, the tools came with the combo kit always useless? ....the chainsaw, hand vac... also, ryobi drill is damaged easily?! switch went out...=.= another question, most of you like 14.4V or 12V? why don't you like 18V, what 's the problem...too heavy, bulky? is that mean, the chain saw and the hand vac are useless, caulking gun comes out too fast, nail gun can't drive. However, ryobi quality is good as milwaukee. a funny thing.....Blue color, the girls love blue, haha~ how do you know? as someone said, 18V is heavy and bulky, i think so, i am a chinese, my hands are small, can't hold it....~
Originally Posted by kakakawai O i see, but why ...... all of you seems dislike the preset combo kit, the tools came with the combo kit always useless? ....the chainsaw, hand vac... also, ryobi drill is damaged easily?! switch went out...=.= another question, most of you like 14.4V or 12V? why don't you like 18V, what 's the problem...too heavy, bulky? is that mean, the chain saw and the hand vac are useless, caulking gun comes out too fast, nail gun can't drive. However, ryobi quality is good as milwaukee. a funny thing.....Blue color, the girls love blue, haha~ how do you know? as someone said, 18V is heavy and bulky, i think so, i am a chinese, my hands are small, can't hold it....~ I was just having some fun the the blue color comment. I think with a lot of sets of any kind, whether it's dealing with tools or any other kind of sets, there will be something in there you won't find necessary. The little hand vac, I don't find useful for anything regardless of who makes it. The caulking gun may have been too fast for whatever application he was using it for...I don't recall what they were doing with it. The nail gun, just like anything else when it's new, could have flaws. I would consider getting it once a newer version is made. For me, I can wait on a nailer (it would be for work anyway...so no rush). I love the 18V size and power. You don't need man hands to use these tools. It also depends on the tool too. Obviously, the chain saw is going to be bigger than the flashlight, but it doesn't make it any harder to hold. If there is a Home Depot near you, I would size up the tools to see if like them (I think you will). If it's an order on the internet and you are worried about not liking all the included tools...you can always do what I did and purchase the smaller kit and buy more as you go. I hope this helps some.
Originally Posted by Rapture I was just having some fun the the blue color comment. I think with a lot of sets of any kind, whether it's dealing with tools or any other kind of sets, there will be something in there you won't find necessary. The little hand vac, I don't find useful for anything regardless of who makes it. The caulking gun may have been too fast for whatever application he was using it for...I don't recall what they were doing with it. The nail gun, just like anything else when it's new, could have flaws. I would consider getting it once a newer version is made. For me, I can wait on a nailer (it would be for work anyway...so no rush). I love the 18V size and power. You don't need man hands to use these tools. It also depends on the tool too. Obviously, the chain saw is going to be bigger than the flashlight, but it doesn't make it any harder to hold. If there is a Home Depot near you, I would size up the tools to see if like them (I think you will). If it's an order on the internet and you are worried about not liking all the included tools...you can always do what I did and purchase the smaller kit and buy more as you go. I hope this helps some. Update... I'm applying some cove base in my theater (where I work) and decided to give the caulk gun a try. It's not bad. The pressure it puts on it even in the lowest setting does give a good enough push to let out a decent amount with a tiny bit of leftovers. Work paid for it....money well spent for the amount of cove base needing to put redone.
I was in home depot today and noticed the new 18 volt Ryobi P201 Torque Drill, does this mean they are getting rid of the P200 with the built in Level? I really like the P200 just the way it is.
Originally Posted by KevinB I was in home depot today and noticed the new 18 volt Ryobi P201 Torque Drill, does this mean they are getting rid of the P200 with the built in Level? I really like the P200 just the way it is. Not sure?? I was just looking at ryboitools.com and the P210 has a level. I don't have the hammer drill (either versions), so I'm not sure what the differences are with the drills...unless they are still using an old picture. That could be what I'm seeing.
What doe the impact driver do that the drill or hammer drill does not do?
Originally Posted by dwcurry What doe the impact driver do that the drill or hammer drill does not do? This is solely my experience only... The drill is a decent drill. It will do things without any problems. It's when you do have those problems you wish you had something better. The Impact Driver has 850 lbs. of torque compared to the drill at 175 lbs. (I could be slightly of with the drill, but not by much). I was driving screws with my drill into studs and once I got to a point where the drill wanted to start stripping the nails....well, I started to get angry. I remembered I had just bought the Impact driver for work, so I tried that out. It is very compact, has a light attached (tiny, but still a light). Once I started using the impact driver, it was obvious this little had a lot more power. Once it hits the stripping spot if it were a normal drill, the impact part kicks in. I had no problems with this guy doing the task. I also use this daily to repair armrests at my theater. I was using a drill, but this thing goes through the steel like butter. I don't have or used the hammerdrill....sorry
I should also mention that the impact driver should be used when 100% percent accuracy isn't needed. Unlike the drill and hammerdrill, the impact driver uses 1/4 hex shanks. This causes a slight inaccuracy when using the impact driver due to shaking. This isn't too big a deal though.
Originally Posted by KevinB I was in home depot today and noticed the new 18 volt Ryobi P201 Torque Drill, does this mean they are getting rid of the P200 with the built in Level? I really like the P200 just the way it is. i think,....... some new drill kit ...P201 some combo kit with P200 wor, why don't like P201? no Home Depot ....as i am in Hong Kong~ ^^ So how about the recip saw ? or other one plus tool? what .......should be add into one plus series, um, i mean... what tools or what home appliances, if it can be used as one plus, cordless way, so ideal, what should be improved of one plus, nail gun ? really don't know what are the problems of this nail gun, i think 18V is heavy, or because i am a chinese girl. do you like the design of one plus, i think one plus quite stylish. when will you use one plus, will it be used by the professional craftsmen?
Originally Posted by kakakawai i think,....... some new drill kit ...P201 some combo kit with P200 wor, why don't like P201? no Home Depot ....as i am in Hong Kong~ ^^ So how about the recip saw ? or other one plus tool? what .......should be add into one plus series, um, i mean... what tools or what home appliances, if it can be used as one plus, cordless way, so ideal, what should be improved of one plus, nail gun ? really don't know what are the problems of this nail gun, i think 18V is heavy, or because i am a chinese girl. do you like the design of one plus, i think one plus quite stylish. when will you use one plus, will it be used by the professional craftsmen? Forgive me if I'm wrong, but are you asking because you are going to be using these tools? It sounds more like you are doing a paper for school work.
its market research for a new tool line to compete with ryobi
Originally Posted by mango man its market research for a new tool line to compete with ryobi um.......say.... actually .......i got this ryobi one plus combo kit, however, i just used few of 10 tools and i don't know do home improvement, ......and of cause, i really need to know more... cause i am thinking of a new tool, i want to design a new tool, if you remember, i am a design student, that why i want to know more. market research or any research is not necessary, i did already, i just finding a problem or a need, to improve power tool. hope you all will forgive me too.
How many more posts does this guy have to make before you guys realize your chain is being pulled? Time for a moderator to do his job and deep six kawasaki.
Hi - I think I can shed some light on the drills - and was hoping someone in turn might have some feedback. So - here's what I've learned, in part by a few calls to Ryobi tech support. The P200 (older version) - has max torque of 400, max speed of 1300 or 1400 rpm. It has two levels. It is slightly bigger and heavier than P201. Chuck is different - seems more heavy-duty to me but I don't know if that's true. The P201 (newer) has max torque of 350, max speed of 1600. No levels. Lighter and smaller than P200 - not a lot, but noticeable. Chuck seems flimsier to me. They added a switch to help quickly switch back and forth between drill and drive mode. What this does is remove the torque limiter without having to turn the torque dial. So - if you're switching between drilling and driving repeatedly, instead of having to turn the dial to drill setting then back to whatever torque setting you were using, each time - you can just flip the switch which could be convenient. So - my impression is - P200 - more heavy duty, less bells and whistles. P201 - convenience of drill/drive switch, but some loss of power and perhaps solidity. Anyone have extensive experience with either one? What's more confusing is that at least in my Home Depot, if you look at the various combo kits out there - you may see some with P200 and some with P201. Similarly, the P500 and P501 Circ saws differ only in that the P500 has the laser guide, the P501 does not. So again, the sense is that they have cheapened the newer models. The starter sets seem to have the P501 (no laser). But one of the higher end combos seems to have the P500. Michael
One correction to last post: P200 has a double sleeve chuck; P201 has a single sleeve.
Tags: ryobi, Originally Posted, impact driver, came with, girls love, girls love blue, hammer drill, have been, heavy bulky, love blue, Originally Posted kakakawai, Posted kakakawai, what problems, what should